DIY SOLAR TUBES EVACUATED VACUUM TUBE SOLAR HOT WATER Boil water with the power of the SUN

Posted February 2nd, 2010 by ahand and filed in Solar power
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25 Comments

Boil water just by placing it in the sun. www.greenpowerscience.com This is a simple process to make your owns solar evacuated vacuum tubes from any bottle and a vase from Walmart.

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25 Responses to “DIY SOLAR TUBES EVACUATED VACUUM TUBE SOLAR HOT WATER Boil water with the power of the SUN”

  1. idahoviewer says:

    Also, with a double wall and NO vacuum to compare the to methods.

  2. slinkee2k says:

    Beautiful! :) But why not just mold the resin with a tube already in place? You could put the tube thru the casting mold and seal the around the tube with clay, just like with the bottle neck. :)

  3. WolYou says:

    Refilling vacuum? Lol.

  4. 1Tane55 says:

    Great Dan thanks!
    Gives inspiration for making a collector with double pane windows and a car radiator in an insulated box with glycol and a heat exchanger. Get some temps below 32F. Might also use a thermostat to control temperature need a bypass or bypassing thermostat. Looking for enough temp for 105F = 60F over ambient. Trying to get that may need your Lens or a reflector. Interesting project let you know how it works out.

  5. FearTurtles says:

    Double pane windows often have a coating on them that filters out the IR light which you are trying to capture. Probably the best way to insulate between the glass would be to fill the space with hydrogen at atmospheric pressure.

  6. HeavyDemir says:

    help me out here cos I dont get it. How can hydrogen insulate better then uh,, nothing ?

  7. FearTurtles says:

    Have you every tried to create a space of “Uh,, nothing and then keeping it sealed? Hydrogen is about as close as you can come to having nothing and it can be done under atmospheric pressure. The problem with Hydrogen however is that it too is hard to keep contained. So a gas such as Argon would actually be better.

  8. HeavyDemir says:

    Hey Dan, try to run your steam engy of that. It would be cool to know if that will work.

  9. grayjc says:

    Dan, thanks for the information. I made one of these today (2 inch glass vase inside of 4 inch glass vase) and everything seemed to be fine, except I had some contraction with the epoxy and some cracking began in the epoxy. Not a problem since I used more epoxy to contain the cracks. I pulled a vacuum (25 in Merc) and let it sit for while in the garage. After about 1 hr the whole thing emploded. Sorry I wasn’t there to see it, but I did hear it. Will try again later with thicker glass.

  10. GREENPOWERSCIENCE says:

    The vacuum does not need to be that strong. The first one I did, the bottled popped loose and flew to the bottom shattering the glass. That may be what happened. You need a rim on the inner vase for the resin to lock on to. A rimless inner container will simply pop loose as resin has poor surface adhesion to glass. The method in this video is, the vacuum sticks the outer vase and the ridge locks the inner one in.

    If they pop loose with a vacuum, they accelerate very fast.

  11. grayjc says:

    My suspected the epoxy as the culprit. As it dryed it shrinks. The shrinkage caused excesive loading of the end of the large vase. I believe it yielded there and cause the emploding. The inner vase was still held within the epoxy mount as it had a lip to retain it. Oddly, the vacuum is still much lower then a common thermos bottles (10-3 to 10-2 Torr). I was still in the single stage vacuum area (10 to 100 Torr) which hardly qualifies for a vacuum according to Wiki.

    Keep em coming! ty

  12. grayjc says:

    2nd attemp worked ok for about a day. Day 2 the noise started. You know that cracking sound that is very unnerving. Split second cracks that make you pull away thinking it will implode. Oddly, there was no vacuum on the container. I finally figured out that the epoxy was breaking loose from the glass at about 1/8 inch per cracking sound. I’ve moved on to Borosilica glass tubes and heat pipes and having fun thanks to your videos.

    Appreciate the DIY. John

  13. grayjc says:

    Lastly, please don’t use the glass vases at Hobby Lobby. They look very thick, but it’s super thin in the center. Give the vases a pinch to check the thickness. I’d recommend beer bottle thickness which feels like 1/10 inch or 2.5mm. thanks

  14. privateworldofwarft says:

    So old school computers used somthing like this back then?

  15. Mecanome says:

    This guy is right. Without a serious vacuum, heat will convect from the core to the exterior. Also, all that epoxy and its surface contact with the core will again provide a great method for heat conduction away from the core. Read the Thermos article on wikipedia for a real understanding of this project.

  16. Mecanome says:

    sorry, this was supposed to be a comment to purplesan on the next page. He stated that this is unlikely to work any better than the non-half-vacuumed version.

  17. Mecanome says:

    Also, there has been comment on using hydrogen as this wouldn’t require a serious vacuum. As I understand it, hydrogen, in terms of thermodynamic characteristics, is the substance of choice for use in stirling engines (practical characteristics aside – leakage, reactivity etc). If hydrogen was a heat insulator then I don’t believe a stirling engine could operate using hydrogen.

  18. mririch1971 says:

    All of your you tube videos are great, have you ever thought about sending any of these to mother earth news ?

  19. the1969info says:

    Hi Dan, thanks so much for your great videos, I can’t get enough of them. I have seen other videos how solar evacuted tubes work. Could you put a vacuum sealed copper tube into the inner bottle and will it heat up. If so could you use it in cold weather to heat your vehicle while your indoors or have a long enough copper tube, you could attach it to your home like a solar heater. The heated tube would be exposed indoors, the ceiling fans would distribute the heat?? Thanks again, great videos!!!!

  20. GREENPOWERSCIENCE says:

    Thank you for the cool comments:-)

    I think you would need a much larger surface area. I think large sheets of double glass could do it. Consider the coroplast heater with a glass cover

    watch?v=SF_mEoFRSAQ

  21. mentaloasis says:

    6:09 Nice catch, lol.

    Great videos by the way. You have inspired me to try out a few of your ideas on my own home. Keep them up! Hope to see more.

  22. jab0805 says:

    You gave me some super ideas. thanx!

  23. Perfectg says:

    Instead of using a vacuum pump (as many folk don’t have access to one) then you can simply heat the vase with the hole drilled in the resin open and then put a stopper in it. As the air inside cools you will end up with a vacuum. You can almost create what ever vacuum you need using this method easily enough to implode your vase so go gentle to start with. A little bit of water inside acts as a vacuum lost indicator as water will remain vapour in a vacuum but condensate out if you lose it.

  24. Patriotgal1 says:

    Another EXCELLENT video from D&D!!!!
    Hint: try sand-blasting the glass parts, where you want them to bond to the resin. This allows a much firmer bond! GREAT WORK!!!

  25. jamesfromyesteryear says:

    Dan, if you play a blowtorch into a cooled glass vase just before you drop the vase down the contraction will suck the epoxy right up into the vase without any adjustments.

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